Friday, January 27, 2012

Roughing It on St. John


Karate Kid?
The term “roughing it” can have many different meanings to many different people. Some could say a four star hotel is roughing it and a three star hotel is close to cave living. Others could say digging your toilet and catching your own food would be roughing it and a hotel room is close to cave living.

Conch Life
When travelling as a couple it’s sometimes difficult to find a place that suits both of our tastes especially when it comes to roughing it. I’m finding that some places I’ve loved going to in the past no longer fit in with our travel style. Both of us love nature and the outdoors but we both don’t have the same love of roughing it. Pamela’s as tough as they come but her idea of a good time, nor mine for that matter, does not include some of the things we experienced on the Caribbean island of St. John.
Little Maho and Francis Bay
Twilight on St. John
After our cruise we flew to the island of St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands for five days of island life. From St. Thomas airport we caught a rather expensive cab then a ferry over to St. John, the smallest and least developed of the US Virgin Islands. The  Virgin Islands National Park comprises two thirds of the 20 square mile island so development is very restricted which leads to beautiful virgin beaches, mountainous trails, abundant wildlife and high price tags for hotel rooms. The National Park and high priced hotel rooms on the island have opened up a market for camp style accommodations at the beautiful Cinnamon and Maho Bays.


Little Maho Bay
Big Maho Bay
We chose to stay at the Maho Bay Camp while on St. John, $140 USD per night plus tax. I (DW) have stayed at the camp a couple times before and always had a good time. When booking a room at the camp you’re actually booking a wood framed, canvas tent cottage, with screen or synthetic windows which open up to a wood deck with ocean views.


The living room of our cottage




Cooking up some soup on the camping gas stove
The construction style of the tent cottage allows for a oneness with nature that you normally don’t find in a typical hotel room. Lying in bed you can drift off to sleep to the sounds of the lapping ocean waves or conversing tree frogs.  Also lying in bed you’ll have the chance to kill or escort out cockroaches, millipedes, large flying insects, crabs, rats, lizards, iguanas and anything else that can crawl, walk, fly or scamper around the jungle. Five shared bathhouses throughout the camp allow you access to shared toilets and cold showers. Flashlights are a must though as there are no lights on the elevated walkways throughout the camp. The lack of lights at night makes for great stargazing opportunities from your deck.

One of our many lizard friends in our cottage
Escorting a millipede out of our room
The essentials when coming to St. John
The Maho Bay Camps are located towards the end of the island in a great location allowing for easy access to beautiful beaches of Big Maho Bay, Francis Bay and Little Maho Bay. A close proximity of hiking trails allows for easy access to Cinnamon Bay, Leinster Bay, Salt Pond and even Reef Bay via the Reef Bay Trail. While on the island we hiked over the Leinster Bay and snorkeled around the crystal blue waters of Waterlemon Cay. The snorkeling around St. John is great, on a sunny day the visibility in the light blue water is great, your chances of spotting rays or turtles are very high.

An iguana above our tent cottage
Enjoying Francis Bay at sunset

The Maho Bay Camp is also well known for its art programs ranging from ceramics, batik and a recycled glass program allowing guests to watch professional glass artists practice their trade from 6:30pm to 9:30pm most evenings. During the day guests can pay to join ceramics, batik or glass blowing glasses with each class creating something unique for you to take home. We felt the prices for the art programs were a bit too steep so we settled on watching the glass artists in the evening. The pieces you watch being created in the evening are then for sale in the Art Gallery the next day. This allows you to see a piece from start to finish and then take the piece home with you.

Watching the sun go down on St. John
Sunset at Little Maho Bay

If the thought of all the critters mentioned above in your room turns you off then Maho Bay Camps is probably not the place for you. Unfortunately in our case it proved not to be the place for Pamela either. While staying at the camp Pamela developed many-many-many bites over her back and arms consistent with bed bugs. Although the camp staff insisted the bites were from sand flies they were nice enough to change the mattress out, give us new sheets, and finally let us leave a night early due to the increasing number of bites on Pamela.  In our four nights at the camp we also dealt with rat poop on our bed, cockroaches crawling over us, Pamela being stung by a jellyfish (just bad luck) and dodging flying poop and pee from the large green iguanas living in the tree above our deck.

One of our iguana friends
On the trail to big Maho Bay
Is this Pamela or the sherpa?


St. John is a beautiful island and I would recommend travelling there to anyone; although far from Australia I hope to see the island again myself. Needless to say this is the last time we’ll be roughing it at Maho Bay Camps as it’s just not the place for us any more.

Showing Off
A death apple tree on the walk to Waterlemon Cay from Maho 


Cheers for Now –

Pamela and Dave

Art Deco in South Florida

Art Deco Weekend in Miami

Our seven night Caribbean cruise finished up in Miami on a cool Sunday morning. We grabbed a rental car and headed to South Beach that afternoon for a day at the beach. The first problem was finding a parking spot, we drove around for about 20 minutes before finding a spot up near 18th street and Washington Drive. After parking we spent about an hour lounging on the white sand beach while watching kite surfers and others swim in the clear blue waters of South Florida.

Hanging out on South Beach
Watching Kite Surfers on South Beach

Walking down to the Art Deco district of Ocean Drive we discovered the street blocked off and a large street fair called Art Deco Weekend happening right before our eyes. The 35 year running art festival celebrates Miami’s rich art history through music performances, car show, food and film. We walked up and down the streets admiring the exhibits and shops while taking photos of the buildings, cars and people that make up this culture rich area. We put some of the more artistic settings on our new camera to good use while in South Beach. Art Deco complete, we left South Beach and headed to a Cuban cafĂ© for some great food.

Art Deco in Miami




The next morning we hopped in our rental car and headed down Florida Highway 1 to Key West. Along the 150 mile scenic drive we stopped in Islamorada for a great country breakfast and then made a pit stop to Bahia Honda State Park for a walk along the beach and abandoned bridge/railway. It was a great drive along what seemed like endless bridges along crystal blue water.

Bahia Honda State Park in the Florida Keys
Abandoned car and railway bridge in the background

Arriving in Key West we hopped straight to a beach where we proceeded to get blasted by the wind and sand. After about 30 minutes being pelted by sand we headed off to the Southernmost point of the Continental United States and a very long line to take pictures in front of the point. We declined the line, and grabbed a snap of the landmark quickly in between the groups of people getting there picture with it, and continued over to the main Street - Duval St. where we ate lunch at Willie-T’s Bar and Restaurant then hit the Sunset Pier with about 5,000 other people where we watched a magnificent sunset. Sunset complete we headed back to Duval St. and checked out some of the many great art galleries in Key West. After consuming an amazing and giant ice cream from Kilwin's, we hopped in the car and made the three hour drive back to Miami. We would have loved to stay in Key West longer and hope to get back there someday.

Driving over the long bridges down to Key West


All our pics from South Florida can be found here: https://picasaweb.google.com/117257906652666550268/SouthFloridaUSA

Cheers for Now –

Pamela and Dave


Monday, January 9, 2012

Abu Dhabi – Fast Cars and Gold Bars



Our Desert Safari
We ended the seven week Middle East portion of our honeymoon/round the world trip with three nights in the city of Abu Dhabi. Our goal was to end this portion of our trip with sun drenched luxury before heading to what we thought would be a cold winter in North America. We succeeded in achieving the sun drenched luxury that we were looking for in Abu Dhabi but were wrong in thinking North America was going to be cold when we got there, at least not in California where it was practically beach weather.

The Sheikh Zayeed Mosque from a Distance in Abu Dhabi

On arrival into the fancy Abu Dhabi airport we caught a BMW 750 limousine from the airport to the Le Meridien hotel which was to be our home for the next three nights. I say caught because the limos are lined up outside alongside the taxi cabs and seem to cost close to the same. We knew we were in a flash place when the fancy BMW was about the same price as a cab.  On arrival at the hotel we lived it up some more and upgraded to the club room which gave us access to the lounge facilities and a top floor room with a sea view.  We’re in Abu Dhabi after all, why not live it up a bit.

Our first stop in Abu Dhabi was the Abu Dhabi Mall which was a convenient 3 minute walk from our hotel. Walking into the mall I distinctly felt like I was in an American mall, a mall in Beverly Hills I might add, that is until I saw all the traditionally dressed men and women walking along and remembered we were still in the Middle East. I think we saw more traditionally dressed men and women in Abu Dhabi than most places we visited in the Middle East. It’s nice to see some of the traditions still present, they may be driving a Bentley but at least some of the customs remain.

Fun on the Dunes

The next day we hailed a cab and went to visit the Heritage Village where we witnessed many of the traditional ways these desert inhabitants survived throughout history. Irrigation techniques and pottery making were both very interesting but I was more interested in the sword craftsmanship. We stopped for a while to rest on the white sand beach while watching the locals race fancy jet skis around at a million miles an hour. Seriously, all these guys/girls seem to do  all day was ride their jet skis as fast as they could go up and down this stretch of beach about 300 meters long. Apparently the area we were in near the Marina Mall was a popular cruising area for fast expensive cars, personal watercraft and large boats. While watching the jet skiers we must have seen the same sets of exotic cars drive by 10 times. After the umpteenth  Ferrari, Aston Martin and Porsche all the cars seemed to blend in and just became obnoxious.

Hanging out on the Beach

Leaving the impromptu car show behind we headed for the Marina Mall where we did some more shopping, checked out the indoor ice skating rink and went up the view tower which sits high above the Marina Mall and offers a coffee bar and restaurant where you can sit and enjoy 360 degree views of Abu Dhabi. We caught an amazing sunset from the tower and watched the Emirates Palace Hotel light up along with the rest of Abu Dhabi’s glamorous skyline.

Enjoying the View from the Marina Mall Tower

The following day we were off to the 7 Star Emirates Palace Hotel for a quick sightseeing trip. We were dropped off in front of the hotel and immediately  felt out of our league as we noticed a Bugatti Veyron parked in the valet. With a price tag of over 2 million dollars, the car, surrounded by photo takers is the fastest and one of the most expensive production cars in the world. Unfortunately I was wearing shorts (it was a warm day) so I wasn’t allowed in the hotel, apparently there’s a dress code for visitors.  I practically begged Pamela to go inside, which she finally agreed to do while I enjoyed the views from outside the hotel and watched bucket loads of tour buses drop off tourists. It definitely seemed like there were more people visiting the hotel than actually staying there.

The Valet at the Emirates Palace Hotel


Looking up at the Emirates Palace Hotel

While inside the hotel Pamela did her best to dodge countless security guards while taking photos of Christmas decorations, interior architecture and a gold dispensing machine. Seriously, she found a vending machine called Gold to Go that dispenses gold. She was tempted to buy a small gold necklace from the vending machine at a cost of about $130 USD but decided against it. After exploring all she could of the hotel interior we grabbed a couple of photos from outside and hailed a cab back to our hotel.

The Gold Dispensing Machine
Some Options of the Gold Dispensing Machine

The morning and early afternoon of our last day in Abu Dhabi was spent lying on the beach working on our tan. Pamela seemed to tan in about 10 minutes but after several hours I didn’t notice any color change. The hotel had a decent beach area with two pools accessible through the health club. Inside the health club was a Turkish Bath style room consisting of three hot pools of varying temperatures, one cold plunge pool to cool off in and a pretty hot steam room. Outside the bath there was a hydro pool containing a few different types of pressure systems designed to help you relax. And relax we did.

Around 3:00pm that afternoon we were picked up from our hotel by a driver in a Toyota Land Cruiser for a desert safari including dune bashing, camel riding, belly dancing and traditional dinner. Our driver was half an hour late so he proceeded to race out to the desert at a white knuckle pace of 100 miles per hour (160km/h) in order to meet with the rest of the safari participants.  Once we were all together the dune bashing commenced. We raced through the sand dunes at breakneck speed slowing down just long enough to notice camel tracks or teeter over the edge of some very high dunes before we were off again. It was so fun to race around the desert in a group of 6 Land Cruisers. At one point the group stopped and we were able to stretch our wobbly legs and take some photos in the beautiful and seemingly never-ending desert.

Hanging out on the Dunes
Another Camel

Dune bashing complete we stopped at a small village area where we hopped on a camel for a quick ride, climbed some high dunes filling our clothes with sand, smoked a sheesha pipe and watched a belly dancer. Unfortunately the belly dancer had great fun in pulling people on stage with her, I was terrible at my red-faced attempt at belly dancing while Pamela did really well. Embarrassment over and food consumed we were whisked back to our Abu Dhabi hotel where we caught a taxi to the airport for our 1:00am flight to Europe. This was the end of our short stay in Abu Dhabi. We originally planned our trip to Abu Dhabi to go to Ferrari World but in the end we decided not to go to Ferrari World based on the many poor reviews we read online. Looking back we think Dubai would have been a better choice for but we don’t regret going to Abu Dhabi and enjoyed the time we spent there.

Me Trying to Belly Dance. Terrible,
Enjoying the Sheesha (Tobacco) Pipe on our Desert Safari

More photos from our trip to Abu Dhabi can be found here: https://picasaweb.google.com/117257906652666550268/AbuDhabi

Cheers for Now –

Pamela and Dave


Saturday, January 7, 2012

Three Days in Banff



Not Long Enough….That’s the first thing you need to know about our trip to Banff. If you’ve never heard of Banff it’s a Canadian Rocky Mountain town with a population of about 8,000 people sitting an easy 90 minute drive from Calgary, Alberta.  The town, founded in the late 19th century as a railway stop, lies inside the Banff National Park which is advertised as “The World’s Finest National Park” and for good reason.

I first visited the area during the summer months as a young teenager travelling with my grandparents. I was hooked for life and have since been back several times and hope to continue coming back for many years to come.  During summer months the outdoor activities are endless while in winter months you can enjoy some of the best snow around. Whether you come in summer or winter you will have some of the best views nature has to offer in stunning Rocky Mountain scenery, wildlife spotting opportunities including bears (summer), elk (heaps of elk), moose and many other animals. When not outdoors you can indulge yourself with fantastic lodging and dining throughout the park including some of the most picturesque hotels on the planet.

Fun with photos in Banff
Our Three Days
On arrival into Calgary airport we hopped on a Brewster Airport-Banff bus ($50 USD pp one way) for the two hour trip to the mountains. Leaving the plains of Calgary you’re quickly surrounded by jagged peaks that seem to come out of nowhere and reach towards the heavens. If travelling in the daylight keep an eye out for herds of elk and other wildlife, we saw a large herd of elk on our trip back to the airport.

We chose to stay at the Inns of Banff hotel which sits on the main street Banff Avenue, just on the outskirts of town but still walking distance to downtown during good weather. The hotel is on the cheaper end of a group of hotels managed by the Banff Lodging Company but has some nice amenities including free wifi and indoor and outdoor heated pools with the outdoor Jacuzzi being the place to go after a day on the mountain skiing/snowboarding. Sit back and relax with steam blowing off the hot water,  surrounded by snow, and watch the sun set amongst the rocky mountains. When staying at the hotel you get a free bus pass for the local town bus which comes by every 40 minutes and will take you straight into downtown and back again, this saves you two bucks a person per trip so a pretty good deal.

We purchased our two day Ski Big 3 lift tickets from the hotel which gave us two lift tickets with transportation each day to either Sunshine Ski Resort, Lake Louise Ski Resort or Norquay Ski Resort. It was a bit cheaper ($16 USD) to buy from the hotel vs the Ski Big 3 desk at the hotel but still a pretty penny at $360 dollars for both of us. The included transportation is a bus which picks you up at designated times from your hotel in the morning and drops you back off in the evening.

After getting into our hotel we bundled-up went to The Keg steakhouse for dinner and each picked a different steak with mashed potatoes to share. Pamela picked a pecan and blue cheese topped sirloin and I picked the winner in a teriyaki sirloin. It was really nice to have a proper steak again as it had been a while. We made a brisk walk back to the hotel in time to hit the outdoor hot pool.

Our first full day was spent snowboarding at Sunshine Ski Resort. The bus picked us up at 7:43 in the still dark morning, we were so tired and it was so dark that you could have told us it was 2am and we would have believed you. Thirty five minutes later we were on the Sunshine gondola heading up to Sunshine Village where we had an awesome day of snowboarding. This was Pamela’s first day back on the board in a couple of years and despite her initial anxiety she picked it up right away. By lunch time we were blasting down intermediate runs and enjoying a light dusting of snow on an unusually warm (0 C/32 F) January day.

The morning gondola at Sunshine
Pamela taking a little break at Sunshine

With boarding and soaking in the hot pool done we caught the bus into town and ate what we think was our best meal of the trip at the Masala Indian restaurant. The chicken korma was amazing!!! We almost went back the next day. With no room for dessert we shopped a bit and took a brisk walk back to the hotel as we just missed the bus.

Loving the Indian food at Masala in Banff

Day number two of our Banff trip started at a much slower pace, we both had slept in a bit, me waking up at a very late 8:30am and Pamela crawling out o f bed very sore from the day before around 11:30am. We had a quick breakfast in the room and caught the bus to the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for some sightseeing. The hotel, one of the most famous landmarks of the area, was built in the late 19th Century as a stop for tourists taking the new railroad through the Canadian Rockies. The hotels famous history, position on the mountain and views of the area make it a must stop for any visitor to Banff. 

The Banff Springs Hotel from a distance

Unfortunately it was cloudy and raining in Banff so the views from the hotel were a bit stunted but still nice. We sat down at the Rundle Lounge in the hotel for some lunch. For one reason or another the lounge was short-staffed that day so the service was shockingly terrible, definitely not Fairmont standards.

The view from the lounge at the Banff Springs Hotel

After a disappointing lunch we caught the bus back towards town for a walk along the Bow River. The Bow River runs right through the town of Banff and the National Park. During the winter much of the river is frozen over but still very nice to look at. Through the town of Banff there are walking and cycling paths along the river that can take you in either direction. We walked along the river for a great view of the Banff Springs Hotel and the mostly frozen over waterfall near the hotel. The two and a half kilometer return walk was nice, even in the cold and rainy drizzle, but a bit slippery in some places from all the ice set on the trails.

Pamela crossing a frozen Bow River

Back in town we did some more shopping and on a recommendation decided to try the Pad Thai Restaurant for dinner. The Massaman Chicken Curry was sooo good, especially on a chilly winter night. For a small family restaurant the service was outstanding and definitely blew away our lunch stop at the 5 star Banff Springs Hotel. Our night ended with a bus trip back to our hotel and a long soak in the hot pool, it was still raining at 8pm that night….we never would have thought it would rain all day in Banff during January, where was the snow?

Enjoying the Massaman Curry at Pad Thai Restaurant in Banff

Day number three, our last full day in Canada, had us catching the 7:39am bus for the 50 minute trip to the Lake Louise Ski Resort. It had snowed the night and day before so the mountain was in really good condition especially for us early birds. The views of Lake Louise itself atop the Grizzly Express Gondola are amazing in winter and even better in the summer. After about an hour of really good riding the snow started falling again and we were just loving it. We stopped in the morning for a few minutes to grab a coffee but otherwise boarded non-stop until about 3pm where we took our tired legs to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise via their free shuttle service. 

Pamela riding at Lake Louise
Having a great day on the mountain

While at the amazingly beautiful hotel we took so many pictures of the famous hotel, frozen lake and snow filled trees and mountains. We walked out onto the ice skating rink/frozen lake and grabbed some pics of the ice castle you can actually skate through. As a photographer Pamela fell in love with the place immediately. We stayed so long and took so many pictures that we missed the last scheduled shuttle back to the ski resort. Thankfully a very-very nice shuttle driver took pity on us and drove us the 10 minutes back to the ski resort where we caught the last bus back to Banff at 5:30pm.

The ice castle built on a frozen Lake Louise


A sleigh ride at Lake Louise
The view of Lake Louise from atop the Grizzly Express Gondola
Looking back on the Chateau on top of the lake

Back at our hotel we did the mandatory soak in the hot pool until I was annoyed by the million wild kids that showed up; if you’re looking for a peaceful hot pool than this probably isn’t the place. Cleaned-up and annoyance over we bussed it over to the Banff Ave Brewing Company for dinner. A Bison Burger and Poutine was our choice with the Poutine being a heart attack inducing bucket of fries covered in four different kinds of cheeses, gravy and about a pound of salt. We’ll definitely have to make it when we get back to Australia :-)

The next morning we were picked up from our hotel at 7:30am for the trip down to the airport. So sad to leave already, it was made that much harder when we looked at the ski reports and saw heaps of snow had fallen at the resorts overnight which would have made for an epic day boarding.  We take solace in knowing that we’ll be back to this area, hopefully next time for longer as three full days is just not long enough.


Cheers for Now –

Pamela and Dave